unplugged [perhaps]

After five weeks of various logistical delays, it appears that we are headed to camp.  Possibly tomorrow.

The 'put-in' flight had a successful landing, despite some safety concerns.  The air field markers placed last year had been buried over the winter and blowing snow had piled sastrugi onto the runway.  Fortunately the overland traverse that had already arrived was able to groom out a safe area for landing.

Our plan for the season is constantly being modified.  Initially, the support staff was supposed to establish the 'main camp' starting in November.  Then in December the scientists would arrive, and using the main camp as a beach head, ferry supplies and people by helicopter to the drill camp out on the glacier.  Now it is being decided if there will be any science at all this season, or if we should just aim to get everything ready for an early/fast start to next season.

Because of the short season, many of the planned amenities have been cancelled.  That includes email/internet, bathing facilities and possibly electricity.  I'll likely be signing off for the next month or so, but plan to post some updates during my return to McMurdo.  In the mean time, the science group is venting on a daily basis from their website that has lots of good information.

Happy New Year

A Gondwana Christmas

On Christmas eve I went out for a stroll around Arrival Heights and Hut Point.  On the descent I noticed some unusual shadows out on the ice.  From a distance it was hard to discriminate what was casting the shadow, but since there aren't too many native fauna species - I was able to guess that these were the first penguins of the season.

They are usually only found around the edge of the sea ice shelf or along the sea shore.  Currently the ice shelf extends out about 20 miles from the station; but it is melting quick.  I found out how much the conditions have deteriorated when trying to get on the ice from the shore.  Crushing pressure has pulverized a section of ice that abuts the shore, causing me to have a very 'exciting' transition onto the solid ice.

When I finally made it out onto solid ice, I slowly started shuffling towards the lonely pair.  As soon as they spotted me, they took off at a clip and I figured my opportunity was lost.  Amazingly, they started coming right towards me; their curiosity was my salvation.

We enjoyed each others company for as long as my frost bitten feet would allow.  When I started heading back towards the shore they took off after me.  I began to hope they would follow be back to the barracks; perhaps make it a 'two penguin night'.

T'was the best Christmas present Mama Gaia could have given me.

Mountain culture on a flat continent

Last night was the accoustic holiday show at the Waste Barn.  It was some of the most fun I've had here.

The denizens came out in the their best down/fleece jackets.  Beers were kept in glove koozies to prevent frost bitten hands.  There was the occasional clatter of bottles kicked over on the metal floor.

It felt similar to the few truly wonderful evenings I've had in some mountain towns like Mammoth Lakes, Missoula and Juneau.

solstice - a 2,880 hour day

The sun rose here at the end of October; it isn't due to set until 21FEB2012. That would make it a 2,880 hour day.

I remember going to the solstice party during my summer in Alaska and being so enthralled to see the sun dip behind the horizon for a few hours, then pop back up.  The experience seems so tame now, but then it was almost overwhelming.

Today I celebrated with another walk out to Castle Rock and was treated to a glorious blue-bird day with mild wind and an unobstructed view.  The sea ice is rapidly melting and the thin line of blue that was on the horizon has widened significantly since last time.

I have seen The Light

View from my new room! A window!

For the last few weeks I've been stuck in 'transient housing', designed for anyone expected to be at McMurdo for 21 days or less.  It is comprised of windowless hovels that accommodate up to six people at a time.  In my 30 days I had a dozen roommates.

Scumbag roommate's bedside supply of junk food

The last roommate finally put me over the edge.  He was a morbidly obese plumber from the South Pole that had to be flown to New Zealand because of a back injury [likely related to the 200 lb gut hanging out in front of him].  His return trip was delayed at McMurdo and I had to suffer with him lying in bed all day [and night] watching TV, eating chips and slurping can after can of Mountain Dew.
I suffered with him leaving the TV on through the night for several days before finally unplugging the cable.
Fortunately management took pity on me and I have been moved to more luxurious accommodations.  The first night I had the room to myself!  That night I slept for 14 glorious, uninterrupted hours.
The only problem now is that I've got light streaming onto my bed 24 hours a day.  Last night I woke up at 11:30pm with the room fully lit; fortunately I quickly drifted off to sleep.  When I awoke later, it seemed time to get up and start the day- it was 1am.

10 safe square miles in a sea of danger

Antarctica encompasses 5.5 million square miles [the entire North American continent is 3 million]. In all of that, there is only 10 square miles that is safe for travel; or so the administration seems to think.

A well defined trail system is the only recreational hiking allowed on station.  Many of the trails require checking out with the fire department, obtaining a radio and going with a buddy.

Fortunately one of the safe areas is the Ob Hill hike.  I can go up whenever the weather is Condition 3 and don't have to check out or go with a partner.

It has sweeping views of ... town.

Yours truly, enjoying the [relative] solitude

Learning by osmosis

Crary Lab, where visiting scientists are given office and lab space

Tonight was an astrophysics lecture by the shuttle bus driver who is taking a hiatus from his PhD.

Last night was the movie showing of the first all women traverse to the South Pole; hosted by one of the four women, she works here in laundry.

SCUBA diver working under the ice shelf

Wednesday was a fascinating slide show at the monthly 'yacht club' meeting by a contract diver about his career as a commercial diver in Antarctica and the rest of the world.

Then there are all the science lectures held by the visiting and resident scientists.